How to Sew Leather by HDSew


Sewing leather is a fine art. It can be very different to cover up any mistakes or blemishes. Many folks ask us “how do we sew leather?”


Here are some ideas:

1. Do not pin leather. You’ll need to purchase some pattern weights. These special weights locks your material down, just like a pin would.

2. Make sure and cut your leather with a sharp rotary cutter or a new pair of scissors. Rotary cutter is the best.

3. Examine your leather before you purchase and create your pattern. What happens if you get home and there is a small hole or imperfection in the quality of the leather. You won’t be able to sell your new leather purse if there is a rip in the side. Remember imperfections are normal…the hide was once living on an animal. Just make sure there isn’t severe imperfections.

4. Are you using the correct heavy duty sewing machine? For thick layers of leather (4.5 to 8mm) you should not be using a standard domestic sewing machine. You will not be able to properly sew on your leather at that width. You should use an industrial walking foot sewing machine such as the HDSew PortaWalker 9″ Walking Foot Sewing Machine. You’ll need to use a machine like this because the built in walking foot and the geared belt pulley system. These two features give you ultimate feeding power and penetration.

5. If you decide on the PortaWalker Sewing Machine, make sure and use a need size at 20 or larger. A domestic sewing machine can only take up to size 19 needle. Without a built in walking foot and geared belt pulley, a domestic sewing machine will only handle roughly 4mm of soft leather.

6. make sure and use the correct thread. If you spend the money on a high quality machine, leather, and needle…you might as well use the correct thread. Purchase nylon weighted thread, not cotton. It’s much stronger.

7. Make sure you use a sharp needle to properly penetrate your leather. This is very important for coarse leather. This will help you not skip stitches as well.

If you have any more questions on sewing thick leather, feel free and email HDSew and we will get back to your with specific help for your need. Our website can be found here HDSew

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